Antique town on a hill, where the streets seem to have stopped in time. Nevertheless, it will be interesting to spend 2-3 days in Coimbra. Visit the first Portuguese university with an amazing library, book a riverboat tour with wine and cheese snacks, listen to Fado, enjoy walks in green parks, and observe student traditions! Few know that Coimbra was the first capital of Portugal. Here's a list of things to do.
1. Take a stroll through the old streets
Coimbra can be roughly divided into three parts: on the hill, at the foot of the hill, and across the river. The main sights and residential buildings are located on top of the hill. The streets here are quite narrow but picturesque. At the foot of the hill, there are several wide main streets and squares, which can be considered pedestrian zones, as cars only pass through in the morning for deliveries. This area is home to many restaurants and shops. Bars and clubs are located on the slope. The most comfortable place for a walk is at the foot of the hill, along the flat streets amidst stunning architecture and colorful houses. On the opposite bank, you will find several fascinating attractions that you should definitely visit.
Tourists prefer to walk everywhere, and there are very few cars in the historic part of the city. I also got around entirely on foot; the city is quite small with interesting streets and landmarks at every turn. With a well-located hotel, you can easily get by without needing a taxi. Don't forget to bring your camera; picturesque alleys and numerous cathedrals await you. The locals have a fondness for bicycles and scooters. Some of the most picturesque streets to explore include R. Viscount of Light and Praca do Comercio.
2. Visiting the University and its Library
Visiting the University and its Library is a must in this student city. It's not only a destination for students but also for tourists. You can easily enter the university's premises, and there's a ticket counter in the inner courtyard, where you can also find a fantastic viewpoint. The University of Coimbra is the oldest and largest higher education institution in Portugal. Initially founded in Lisbon in 1290, it moved several times before being permanently located in Coimbra in 1537. Today, the university's buildings are scattered throughout the city in historic edifices. Since 2013, the university has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As you walk around the city, you will definitely encounter students in black capes with ribbons on their chests. The color of the ribbon indicates their faculty, and the number of ribbons signifies the year of study. If you happen to be in the city at the end of May, you'll witness students burning these ribbons to mark the beginning of summer vacation. At present, Coimbra has eight faculties and one of the oldest and largest libraries in Europe. Besides being a treasure trove of knowledge, the library is stunningly beautiful, designed in the Baroque style. It houses over 35,000 books and manuscripts published before the 19th century, arranged on wooden shelves along the walls. However, please note that photography is not allowed.
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, closed on Mondays.
Ticket price: 10€
3. Visiting the Se Velha Cathedral
This historic building is located in the heart of the city, so you'll likely come across it while exploring the city's slopes. Inside, you'll find intricately painted walls, carved arches, and a breathtaking view from the balcony on the second floor. History and architecture enthusiasts will certainly appreciate this site. Despite being often depicted as a massive structure in photos and on websites, I found it to be very refined and elegant due to its towering arches and columns.
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 10:00 AM to 5:30 PM, Sunday from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
Ticket price: 3€.
4. Trying the local baked goods
The city offers some of the tastiest baked goods and a vast variety of sweets. You'll find pastry shops at nearly every corner, displaying large meringues and cakes in their windows. Inside these shops, you'll discover many delightful pastries. Don't deny yourself the pleasure of indulging in these treats; the extra calories will be easily burned off as you climb the steep streets leading to the city's main attractions. You'll be pleased with the prices of these desserts and hot beverages. Enjoy a dessert with a cup of tea or coffee in a beautiful setting.
5. Visiting the Machado de Castro Museum
This is the most important and beautiful museum in Coimbra, named after the renowned Portuguese sculptor. It was opened on the site of the Episcopal Palace and the old church of San Juan de Almedina. Most of the exhibits are located underground. You'll first stroll through the dark, narrow passages that have been preserved since ancient Roman times. Then you can enter other halls and immerse yourself in art through the sculptures found here during excavations.
On the first floor, parts of architectural structures have been restored, and live concerts by pianists are held in front of the altar. There's a special atmosphere when you learn about the town's history amid the sounds of classical music. In front of the piano, among the paintings, there's a small auditorium where you can sit and enjoy the performance. The museum is genuinely large and has interesting exhibitions, so I highly recommend visiting!
Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, closed on Mondays.
Ticket price: 6€ (3€ if some exhibits are closed).
6. Explore the Park Museum "Portugal in Miniature"
The museum park is located outdoors on the opposite bank of the Mondego River. It was built in 1940 under the guidance of Professor Bissaya Barreto and the architect Cassiano Branco. The main idea is to vividly show children the history and culture of Portugal and its colonies without leaving the city. That's why the size of the buildings is so miniature—kids can climb onto the sculptures and monuments, learning through play.
Pay Special Attention to the Great Geographical Discoveries, Brazil, and Lisbon zones. At the end of the park, there's a playground, a park, and typical Portuguese houses. On the left side, you'll find a souvenir shop and an ice cream stand.
Opening hours: Monday to Sunday from 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM.
Ticket price: 14€, free for children under 2 years old.
7. Visit the Church and Monastery of Saint Cross (Santa Cruz)
In the heart of the city, on the 8th of May Square, you will find a church with a magnificent arch at the entrance. The church is active, and services are held there every morning, which you can attend for free. However, to fully enjoy the monastery, you'll need to enter the room to the left of the altar and purchase a ticket. This attraction is renowned for its rich history. It was a place where Saint Anthony practiced his knowledge, and the first King of Portugal, Afonso Henriques, attended religious services here after battles.
The monastery's halls are located on the first through third floors. There's an inner courtyard in a typical Portuguese style with high columns, arches, and azulejos on the walls. This is where you can take some of the most beautiful photos, so be sure to bring your camera. On the third floor, you'll find an incredibly beautiful room with the tombs of the first kings, Afonso I the Great and Sancho I. Also, make sure to visit the other end of the corridor, where you'll find the choir room with a view from above of the active church. You can get a close look at the organ, which still functions to this day.
8. Visit Casa Museu Bissaya Barreto
Visit the house-museum of Professor of Medicine at the University of Coimbra, surgeon, and philanthropist - Fernando Bissaya Barreto. He owned the residence for almost 50 years, so it is in this home space that you can learn more about the life and values of the renowned Portuguese benefactor. When you visit the museum, you will find the charming architecture of the building, a lush garden with decorative elements, furniture, and stunning collections of artworks that the owner commissioned from the very best artists and craftsmen in the region. The house was built in 1925, designed by architect F. Viterbo in an eclectic style with strong features of Portuguese Baroque.
On the official website, check the schedule of interesting events. For example, in September 2022, every Tuesday, there was a tea break for visitors from 5 to 6 in the evening.
Opening hours: Tuesday from 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM, Wednesday to Saturday from 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with a break from 1:00 PM to 2:00 PM. Closed on Mondays and Sundays.
Ticket price: €3, child under 6 years old - €1.5.
9. Praça Oito de Maio
Spending some time at the picturesque square with fountains in the city center is a great idea. You can take photos, stroll through the nearby narrow streets, visit churches, or simply enjoy lunch with a beautiful view in this historical location.
Getting to Coimbra
Coimbra doesn't have its own airport, so the most convenient way to reach the city is from major cities like Lisbon and Porto. You can use public transportation, such as trains or buses, or you can drive your own car.
Trains from Lisbon depart frequently from the Santa Apolonia and Oriente train stations, and the journey takes about 2 hours. The ticket price typically ranges from 20 to 25 euros. If you're under 25, you can get a discount, reducing the ticket price to 15 euros. There are two train stations in Coimbra, and trains from Lisbon arrive at Coimbra-B. You may need to transfer to another train to reach the city center. Usually, when you buy a ticket, the transfer is included. However, waiting for the second train can take up to half an hour. That's why I decided to walk to the historical center from Coimbra-B, which takes about 15 minutes. On the other side of the station, there's a commuter train line to Coimbra, but you'll need a separate ticket for this. Taxis are available at the station entrance. The train station is small, so getting lost is unlikely, and you can check train schedules on the display at the end of the platform.
I used the bus for my return trip to Lisbon and I really want to praise FlixBus, it was my first trip with them. I bought the ticket for 4.99 euros and could choose any available seat. Before this, I was quite worried about not having a specific seat number, but in the end, I sat in the first row, where tickets cost around 20 euros. The journey took 2 hours, and it was not tiring at all, with beautiful views, and Wi-Fi was available. Besides FlixBus, you can also travel with RedeExpress, and their station is a bit closer to the city center. I walked to the bus stations, the walk was quite flat, and I had some free time for a final stroll.
Where to Stay in Coimbra
In the historic city, you'll find a vast number of interesting accommodation options, most of which exude antique charm through their interiors. Hotels strive to preserve and convey centuries of history. However, in Coimbra, you'll also come across a few upscale chain hotels. For example:
Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra: A luxurious historic hotel.
Oslo: Modern interior and a rooftop bar.
Astoria Hotel: A historic building with a river view.
Mondego: Good location and interior.
Zero Box Lodge: A modern concept with no windows.
Guest House Santa Clara Coimbra: Located on the other side of the river."
Best Bars and Restaurants in Coimbra
Coimbra is one of the best places to try traditional dishes. First, the food is incredibly delicious, and second, the prices are unbelievably low, catering to students. I especially recommend indulging in local pastries and bread; my favorites are cornbread and honey pie. Don't hesitate to visit the most beautiful restaurants in the city center, as even the most touristy places offer excellent service and affordable prices. For example, in the restaurants on May 8th Square, a bowl of soup costs 1.20 euros, and a full meal is only 6 euros. Here are a few restaurants that I enjoyed:
Visconde - a vast selection of pastries, Portuguese cuisine.
Cafe Santa Cruz - historic interior and live music.
Coisas da Lena - Portuguese cuisine.
O croisant - brunch.
Italiano - Italian cuisine.
Taberna D'Almedina - a bar with live music in the evenings.
A cozinha da Maria - Portuguese cuisine.
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